With summer fast approaching, you don’t have to spend every Saturday afternoon mowing your lawns! Warm humid temperatures, afternoon storms are just some of the ingredients that help promote growth.
Listed below are a few tips to keep in mind the next time you mow your lawn…
It is important never to cut more than one third of the grass length. Scalping the lawn will encourage weeds to grow. Cutting the grass too short will give weeds the ability to grow quickly as your lawn prevents the weeds from becoming established.
In Eastern Australia summers can be very dry, with rain events becoming far-and-few-between, cut areas which are exposed to direct sunlight for long periods a little longer. This will help protect the soil and the grass roots from drying out quickly.
If you find after you have mowed, your lawn has a ‘silver sheen’ or ‘frayed’ the blade(s) on your mower need sharpening.
You MUST overlap each run so that the wheels do not go in the same place all the time. Repeated grass cutting in the same track will produce ruts!
Some mowers these days come with the option of mulching. You should consider mulching your lawn every third or fourth mow. There are no real proven advantages to mulching, but it does put the fine grass clippings back into the soil which may help to create a better lawn in the future. One disadvantage to mulching is if you have weeds in your lawn and they are flowering or have a seed head, you are putting those seeds back into your lawn.
Hopefully these few handy tips will help improve your lawn and make it easier to maintain a healthy and beautiful looking lawn!
Seasol International; is a excellent company promoting fertilizers and liquid fertilizers to promote vigorous flowering and fruiting, plus promotes overall garden health. Please check their website out for more information. For the right advice when it comes to fertilizers and other products used in and around the garden, Seasol International are the right people to speak to! To visit their website click on the link below:
Sugar Cane Mulch; here at Aspiring Garden And Landscaping we love to promote healthy gardens! We strongly recommend the use of sugar cane mulches. Okay, Red-dyed pine chips last for years and do not break-down quickly, but lets get serious about gardening! Sugar cane mulch is great for suppressing weeds, prevents soil evaporation and increases earthworms in the garden. It is also certified for use in organic gardens.
Check out Australian Prime Fibres' website for more information.
Spring Time Is Just Around The Corner! And it's time to get the vegetable garden into shape. Depending on how your soil looks, maybe it is time to add some compost to your soil. Remember compost contains decomposing organic matter and is added into the soil to hold moisture. One of the key points to remember is to keep your soil aerated to give it structure - this is also vital to create microbial activity.
Now the most important aspect of good soil is to remember mulch goes on top and is never dug into the soil. Being free-draining its job is to keep moisture in the soil, smother weeds and to finish off the surface of a garden bed.
This is the right time to get your garden bed ready for spring! Call or contact us today if you would like help to gain more from your vegetable garden...
Creating The Best Hedge! Lets get down to the basics of a good hedge... We've all taken a drive around the Illawarra, looking at other gardens to get great ideas. Most people strive to create the ultimate hedge.
Lets take Murraya Paniculata for example. This species is easy care and disease free. Even though the Murraya Paniculata is related to citrus, hence the reason for the orange blossom scent of the flowers, some people are disappointed with the lack of foliage colour in comparison
to other hedging plants.
Murrayas' are a great alternative to other species if you require a taller hedge. They do not produce stunning flowers like other species. One key point to remember when creating a hedge is to dig a trench the entire length of the area, not individual holes. By doing this when you add soil conditioners and compost, all the plants will get the same amount of nutrients and organisms to promote a steady growth... Happy Hedging!
I love composting! I would say I am a total compost addict. My late grandfather was a proud compost enthusiast, still to date, my grandmother will say,.."your grandfather was always in the garden. He always composted everything". Maybe I have picked up his traits.
Compost is the most natural, gentle and complete fertiliser of all. Properly made, with a wide mixture of ingredients, it contains more plant food and minerals than any other fertiliser, in a beautifully balanced form. Compost is the only fertiliser in which it is possible to plant seeds or plants directly, without harming young roots, and produce healthy growth.
March is the ideal time to make compost, because the weather is still warm, and there is a huge variety of organic matter available for conversion.
The question people always ask is what kind of materials can be used for making compost? And once I tell people the answer, they are surprised! The answer is simple: anything which has once been alive. This means that grass cuttings, weeds, leaves, kitchen scraps, seaweed, old natural-fibre clothing, straw, spoilt hay, dead chooks, and even old newspapers, can all be recycled to produce compost.
Even though the science behind making excellent compost is not that difficult, the one mistake I see often is people who think collecting weeds, grass clippings and other rubbish from around the garden, and putting them in a pile at the bottom of the garden will make good compost. They are wrong. Collecting garden waste, heaping it up over many months, then allowing it to slowly rot down over many more months, believe it or not, eventually produces compost. Yes this method does take a long time; so lets look at another way to make compost.
Compost can be made in about three weeks at this time of the year, and a little longer during cold weather. When compost is correctly made, the heap of organic material becomes very hot, and this heat not only destroys harmful micro-organisms, but also insect pests and even weed seeds.
The following is what you must do to make good compost:
1. Collect weeds, clippings, leaves etc. If necessary, bring in old hay or straw or even seaweed.
2. A simple bin to support the material can be made from chickenwire, timber or bales of straw. The dimensions should be no less than a cubic metre. Two such bins, side by side will hold well over one tonne of compost each if necessary.
3. If you cannot build a bin, the heap can be made on the open ground, without supports, but it should occupy an area twice as large as when bins are used. This is to compensate for loss of heat from the exposed sides of the heap.
4. Throw down a layer of the basic materials, about twenty centimetres thick (eight inches). Wet it thoroughly so that it is completely saturated.
5. Spread a thin layer of manure over the surface and wash it in with the hose. Fowl manure, horse manure or even pigeon droppings are excellent, but blood and bone or any other fertiliser with a good nitrogen content will do fine.
6. Add a further layer of the basic materials, topping it up with more manures and keeping everything saturated all the time. Continue with this layering technique until the bin is full, or the heap is about two-metres tall.
7. The heap will soon start to become hot as the bacteria get to work. By the next day it will be impossible to place your hand inside the pile. The pile can be left until it matures - in about two months. If you want the compost in a hurry, the break-down can be quicker.
8. For quick compost, the heap must be turned in order to allow air to circulate through the material, and more water added. This is why having two bins side by side is an advantage. It means that a full bin can be easily turned into the adjoining empty one. The turning process involves forking great masses of the hot mixture and shaking it to fluff it out while tossing it into the new bin. Every now and then, sprinkle plenty of water on the new heap as it builds up. If there are streaks of white mould in the straw, it means there is a lack of moisture, so try and compensate by spraying it with more water. If the heap is too wet, it will be cold and smelly, and the turning operation must be very thoroughly carried out to break up the mass of undecayed material.
This turning is essential for quick results and is best carried out every three days, or even more often.
Within three weeks, the original organic matter will be unrecognisable, and will have become dark brown, pleasantly earth-smelling and lovely to handle. In other words, you will have made compost.
Compost must be placed in the planting hole, below the surface, away from the wind and sun. Spreading it over the surface of the soil can waste it, as it just dries out. If it cannot be buried below the surface, it can be spread around plants then covered with a mulch of old straw, hay or wads of newspaper.
WATER IN AND AROUND THE GARDEN...
One Of The Driest Continents On Earth! Click on the link below to learn about Rainwater Harvesting. Here at Aspiring Garden And Landscaping we believe everyone is responsible to conserve water!
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